B1325 on Chevrolet: How to Diagnose & Fix
Device / Control Module Power Circuit Voltage Out of Range
3 Chevrolet models · 3 documented issues · $150-$800 repair
B1325 on Chevrolet by model: symptoms, diagnosis and fix
The Bolt EV is never fully powered down; modules continue to wake for telematics, charge scheduling and pack maintenance, and the DC-DC converter is supposed to top the 12V accessory battery from the traction pack on a periodic wake cycle. Owners across chevybolt.org and mychevybolt.com report that cycle failing or being outrun by parasitic draw, leaving a flat 12V after as little as three days parked. Reports cluster on cars that sat on dealer lots for months (which permanently degrades the 12V), on cars whose top-up algorithm becomes less aggressive when traction pack state of charge is low, and on cars with a genuine parasitic draw where the drain happens overnight but never during the day. The consequence is worse than on a gas car: with a dead 12V the Bolt will not power up, will not accept a charge, and the charge port latch stays locked with the cable trapped in the port. Owners report repeat failures - one 2021 car died five times, another killed a brand new battery within a month.
Common Symptoms
- Car completely dead - no dash, no power button response, no door unlock
- Dead 12V battery after only a few days parked
- Battery drains overnight but not while parked during the day
- Cannot start a charge session even though the traction pack has charge
- Charge cable locked in the port and will not release
- Repeat 12V battery failures within months of replacement
- Multiple module warning lights after a jump start
How to Fix
First confirm the 12V battery itself: a lot-aged or repeatedly deep-cycled AGM must be replaced, not merely recharged. Then measure parasitic draw with the car asleep for a full 45-60 minute module shutdown period; a healthy Bolt settles to a low milliamp draw. Persistent drains have been traced to modules failing to sleep and to a DC-DC/APM top-up cycle that is not running - both warrant dealer diagnosis, and the charging and battery control modules fall under the EV component warranty. Practical mitigation: keep traction pack state of charge above roughly 30%, plug in when parked long-term, and use a 12V maintainer if the car sits for weeks. Learn the emergency manual charge-port release before you need it.
What you need to diagnose it
The fix here starts with a test, not a part — which repair you need depends on what the test finds.At least one code uses a manufacturer-specific format. No scanner recommendation is shown because family-level coverage cannot prove it can read that code.
UNI-T UT210E Low-Current DC Clamp Meter
1 mA resolution on the 2 A range — a 0.1 A meter reads a 50 mA drain as zero
$40–$70View
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. Prices are approximate and may vary.
Testing and isolating the fault is DIY work. Replacing or reprogramming a control module is not — most are VIN-programmed, so a new one does nothing until a shop codes it to your car. Check for an open recall or service bulletin before buying anything.
Sources for this issue (4)
The 2015+ Suburban uses an electronic steering column lock that can malfunction, causing a clicking noise from the steering column, failure to recognize the key fob, or preventing the vehicle from starting. The electronic lock module replaces the traditional key-cylinder lock and communicates with the body control module (BCM) to verify the key fob is present before allowing the engine to start. When the lock module fails, it may click repeatedly without unlocking, or it may not engage at all, leaving the steering unlocked even when the vehicle is off.
Common Symptoms
- Rapid clicking noise from steering column
- Vehicle will not start — "Steering Column Lock" message
- Key fob not detected despite fresh battery
- Steering wheel does not lock when vehicle is off
- Intermittent no-start condition
- Multiple clicks before engine starts
How to Fix
The steering column lock actuator module needs replacement ($150-$400 for parts, $200-$400 labor). The module is located inside the steering column and requires partial disassembly to access. A scan tool is needed to program the new module to the BCM after installation. In some cases, a BCM software update at the dealer resolves the clicking without hardware replacement. If the vehicle will not start due to a failed lock module, a tow to the dealer is required — there is no manual override.
Sources for this issue (1)
A number of owners have reported dead batteries, slow cranking, or complete no-start conditions after the vehicle sits overnight or for a few days. On new vehicles this often traces to software modules not going to sleep properly, telematics/infotainment wake-up issues, or a weak original battery rather than a traditional charging-system failure. The problem tends to appear early in ownership and can be intermittent.
Common Symptoms
- dead battery after sitting
- slow crank
- click no-start
- multiple warning lights on startup
- remote start inoperative
- infotainment resets after jump-start
How to Fix
Load-test the battery, verify charging voltage, and perform a parasitic draw test after all modules should be asleep. Dealers may update module software, inspect for modules staying awake on the network, and replace the battery if it fails testing. Repeated jump-starting without root-cause diagnosis can mask the actual draw problem.
What you need to diagnose it
The fix here starts with a test, not a part — which repair you need depends on what the test finds.At least one code uses a manufacturer-specific format. No scanner recommendation is shown because family-level coverage cannot prove it can read that code.
UNI-T UT210E Low-Current DC Clamp Meter
1 mA resolution on the 2 A range — a 0.1 A meter reads a 50 mA drain as zero
$40–$70View
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. Prices are approximate and may vary.
Testing and isolating the fault is DIY work. Replacing or reprogramming a control module is not — most are VIN-programmed, so a new one does nothing until a shop codes it to your car. Check for an open recall or service bulletin before buying anything.
Sources for this issue (1)
B1325 code reference
General diagnostic-code context. The code alone does not confirm a cause for your vehicle; use the applicable issue card and its sources.
Frequently asked questions
What does B1325 mean on a Chevrolet?
B1325 stands for "Device / Control Module Power Circuit Voltage Out of Range." This is a manufacturer-specific body code (common on GM and others) indicating a control module detected its supply voltage outside the acceptable range, typically too low or too high. Modules need a stable voltage (roughly within battery/charging norms); readings that drop too low or spike too high trigger this code. The most frequent real-world cause is a weak battery or charging problem, especially in cold weather. Symptoms depend on the affected module, and the charging system and battery should be checked first. On Chevrolet it is documented across 3 models: Bolt EV, Suburban, Trax.
What are the most common causes of B1325?
The most common causes of B1325 are: Weak, discharged, or failing battery, Charging system/alternator fault (over- or under-charging), Corroded or loose battery terminals and grounds, Poor power or ground connection to the module, Damaged wiring in the module power circuit, High resistance connections causing voltage drop. The specific cause varies by vehicle.
How much does it cost to fix B1325 on a Chevrolet?
Published repair estimates on Chevrolet range from $150 to $800 depending on the model and root cause. If an issue mentions a recall or campaign, check your VIN with the manufacturer or NHTSA and confirm eligibility and coverage with a dealer.
Looking for B1325 on a different make?
View B1325 across all makes →Content compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, and owner reports. May contain errors. Always verify with your vehicle's service manual.