U1110 on Dodge: How to Diagnose & Fix
Network Communication Fault (manufacturer-specific; commonly Lost Vehicle Speed Message)
1 Dodge model · 1 documented issue · $140-$1,200 repair
U1110 on Dodge by model: symptoms, diagnosis and fix
A widely reported electrical complaint across nearly all Challenger model years is excessive parasitic battery drain that leaves the car dead overnight or after sitting a few days. A healthy modern vehicle should settle to roughly 25-50 mA of key-off draw once all modules go to sleep; owners reporting this problem measure anywhere from several hundred milliamps to over 2-4 amps, which is enough to flatten a battery in a day or two. There are several distinct, real-world root causes documented across owner forums (ChallengerTalk, ChallengerForumz, Hellcat.org), NHTSA/CarComplaints filings, and repair sites: 1) Power-window self-cycling — a faulty window switch or window module causes the driver- or passenger-side glass to drop and raise itself a fraction of an inch repeatedly with the key off, running the motor until the battery is dead. 2) TIPM failure — a known weak point on Chrysler/Dodge platforms and a common diagnosis on early (2008-2014) cars. 3) Infotainment / Uconnect radio (RER, 730N, and later Uconnect head units) not entering sleep mode — a hung or buggy radio keeps the accessory bus awake. 4) Stuck switches and accessories — faulty door-jamb/courtesy switches that keep a dome light on, a trunk/glovebox/vanity light staying on, door-lock actuator faults, or aftermarket add-ons (alarms, amps, dash cams) wired to a constant-hot circuit.
Common Symptoms
- Battery dead the next morning or after the car sits a few days
- Car needs a jump-start frequently despite a relatively new battery
- Power window drops and raises itself a fraction of an inch with the key off / ignition off
- Audible relay clicking or a motor/pump running after the car is shut off and locked
- Key-off parasitic draw measures well above the normal ~25-50 mA (often hundreds of mA to 2-4 A)
- New battery still goes dead and alternator tests fine
- Dome, trunk, or courtesy light staying on with doors closed
How to Fix
Confirm the charging system first: load-test the battery and verify alternator output with a multimeter, including an AC-ripple check to catch a failing diode (a new battery that keeps dying with a "good" charging test points to parasitic draw, not the battery). Then perform a key-off parasitic-draw test: let the car fully sleep (30-60 minutes, doors closed), put a meter in series with the negative battery cable, and confirm the draw. Anything sustained above ~50 mA is suspect; over ~250 mA will flatten the battery overnight. Isolate the offending circuit by pulling fuses/relays one at a time (both the under-hood and trunk-area fuse boxes) and watching for the draw to drop. Common findings and fixes: - Power-window self-cycling: replace the faulty window switch or window/door module and reset window auto-up programming; have the dealer check for any applicable recall/extended-warranty coverage. - Radio/Uconnect not sleeping: confirm by pulling the radio fuse; fix with a head-unit software re-flash/update or replace the head unit if it won't sleep. - TIPM keeping a circuit awake or a stuck relay: swap/replace the suspect relay or, if confirmed, the TIPM. - Stuck door/courtesy/trunk switch or stuck dome light: replace the faulty switch. - Aftermarket accessories: move any constant-draw add-ons to a switched/ignition circuit.
Call to confirm they can assess your vehicle and perform the stated work. Search results do not confirm qualification, eligibility or coverage.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
- Innova 3320 auto-ranging digital multimeter
Its DC10A input is unfused and the manual limits high-current readings; incorrect series connection can damage the meter or vehicle, so use the exact manual procedure and a current clamp/professional diagnosis when the draw may exceed th…
- NOCO GENIUS5 five-amp charger, maintainer and desulfator
Long-term-storage support after the battery and charging system are known good, or while an infrequently driven vehicle is stored Fitment: Universal 6V/12V lead-acid including AGM and lithium support; it does not locate or repair a paras…
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Sources for this issue (3)
U1110 code reference
General diagnostic-code context. The code alone does not confirm a cause for your vehicle; use the applicable issue card and its sources.
Frequently asked questions
What does U1110 mean on a Dodge?
U1110 stands for "Network Communication Fault (manufacturer-specific; commonly Lost Vehicle Speed Message)." U1110 is a manufacturer-specific network (U) code, so its exact meaning varies by automaker. It generally indicates a data-bus communication problem; on several makes (such as Chrysler and Ford) it is associated with a lost or invalid vehicle speed message, meaning a module did not receive the expected speed data over the network. Loss of this data can affect modules that rely on vehicle speed, sometimes causing speedometer, cruise, or related symptoms. The specific definition should be confirmed against the vehicle's service information. On Dodge it is documented across 1 model: Challenger.
What are the most common causes of U1110?
The most common causes of U1110 are: Wiring or connector fault on the communication bus, Faulty source module (e.g., ABS module sending speed data), Loss of power or ground to a networked module, Corroded connector pins, Bus wiring short or open, Faulty receiving control module. The specific cause varies by vehicle.
How much does it cost to fix U1110 on a Dodge?
Published repair estimates on Dodge range from $140 to $1,200 depending on the model and root cause. If an issue mentions a recall or campaign, check your VIN with the manufacturer or NHTSA and confirm eligibility and coverage with a dealer.
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Content compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, and owner reports. May contain errors. Always verify with your vehicle's service manual.