P0562 on Dodge: How to Diagnose & Fix
System Voltage Low
5 Dodge models · 8 documented issues · 2 critical · $10-$2,400 repair
P0562 on Dodge by model: symptoms, diagnosis and fix
The alternator can fail, sometimes with little or no warning. When it stops charging, the car runs on the battery until voltage drops too low, and then the engine can stall. On 2011-2014 Chargers this failure is covered by two Chrysler (FCA) safety recalls. What goes wrong: according to FCA's recall filings, the diodes in the alternator's rectifier wear out from heat fatigue. The cause is high operating temperatures combined with the repeated load cycles from the electro-hydraulic power steering (EHPS) pump. A failed alternator may give no output, reduced output, or short to ground. As voltage falls, the ABS/stability control and the engine and body control modules can shut off. FCA's investigation also looked into reports of heavier steering effort and the engine stalling while driving. A failed diode can also develop a short that produces heat, smoke, or fire inside the alternator. FCA says a warning light may come on just before the failure in some cases, and the "Battery Saver Mode" message may appear. - Recall 14V-634 (FCA P60) covers 2011-2014 Chargers built from June 2010 to December 2013 with the 3.6L V6 and the 160-amp alternator. FCA changed that alternator in production on January 3, 2014. - Recall 17V-435 (FCA T36) covers 2011-2014 Chargers with EHPS: 5.7L cars with the 160-amp or 180-amp alternator, and 3.6L cars with the 180-amp alternator. Owners on CarComplaints describe an alternator smoking and the car dying, being left stranded in traffic, and a Battery Saver Mode warning appearing before the failure. The failures reported there averaged about 42,700 miles. One owner reports that the alternator installed under the recall also failed later. High electrical loads from added aftermarket accessories can also strain the alternator. 2015-2020 Chargers are not included in either recall.
Common Symptoms
- Battery/charging warning light or "Battery Saver Mode" message on the dash
- Dim headlights
- Electrical accessories acting erratically
- Heavier steering effort or ABS/stability control warning lights as voltage drops
- Battery not holding charge
- Engine stalls while driving and won't restart
- Smoke or burning smell from the alternator area
- Whining noise from alternator
How to Fix
1. Check for open recalls first. Enter your VIN on NHTSA's recall lookup or give it to a Dodge dealer. If your 2011-2014 Charger falls under recall 14V-634 (FCA P60), the dealer installs a replacement alternator built with higher-rated resin diodes, the same diodes used in the 180-amp alternator that did not have this problem. Under recall 17V-435 (FCA T36), the dealer checks the DENSO part number on the alternator and replaces the alternator if needed. 2. If you already paid for an alternator replacement, FCA's 17V-435 filing says it reimburses owners who paid for a repair that later became the subject of a recall. Send FCA your original receipt or other proof of payment. 3. If your car is not covered, test before replacing parts. Have the battery load-tested and the charging output checked with the engine running. If the alternator is smoking or smells burnt, or the dash shows a charging or Battery Saver Mode warning, stop driving and have the car towed. A failed alternator can overheat, and the car may stall. 4. If the alternator has failed, replace it with an OEM or quality remanufactured unit. Test the battery again afterward, because repeated undercharging can damage it. If you have added high-draw accessories, check whether the stock alternator puts out enough for them.
Sources for this issue (3)
The alternator can fail prematurely, causing charging system issues. The Durango has many electrical systems that put demand on the charging system. High electrical loads accelerate alternator wear.
Common Symptoms
- Battery warning light
- Dim headlights
- Electrical accessories acting erratically
- Dead battery
- Whining noise from alternator
How to Fix
On 2011-2014 models, first check the VIN for open recalls 14V634 (3.6L with 160-amp alternator) and 17V435 (3.6L or 5.7L with 160/180/220-amp alternator); dealers inspect and replace the alternator free of charge. Replace alternator with OEM or quality aftermarket. Test battery condition as it may be damaged from undercharging. Consider higher-output alternator if aftermarket accessories installed.
Sources for this issue (2)
Alternators fail prematurely due to bearing wear, voltage regulator failure, and internal diode damage. A failing alternator stops charging the battery properly, causing electrical problems and eventually a dead battery. Sometimes it overcharges instead, damaging electrical components.
Common Symptoms
- Battery warning light illuminated
- Dimming headlights or interior lights
- Lights dim or brighten with engine RPM
- Battery dies or won't hold charge
- Whining or grinding noise from alternator
How to Fix
Test alternator output voltage and amperage to confirm failure. Replace alternator with quality rebuilt or new unit. Inspect serpentine belt and replace if necessary. Check battery condition - failing battery can damage alternator.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
- Mopar 4801490AD alternator
Replace on the exact configurations listed by Mopar after failed charging-output testing Fitment: Use the product fitment/VIN check; not a blanket 2009-2020 alternator Live Mopar direct-product page when checked
Sources for this issue (2)
Alternators fail prematurely, often around 60,000-80,000 miles. The 2.4L models are especially prone. Symptoms progress from dim lights to battery drain to complete electrical failure.
Common Symptoms
- Dim headlights
- Battery warning light
- Electrical accessories cutting out
- Vehicle dies while driving
How to Fix
Replace alternator. OE Denso or quality remanufactured unit recommended. Check serpentine belt and tensioner at the same time, as a worn belt accelerates alternator bearing wear.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
- Mopar 4801477AA engine alternator, superseded by 4801477AG
Higher-output alternator branch after charging-system tests confirm alternator failure and the original unit/VIN identifies the 140A build Fitment: Live OEM fitment lists 2007-2014 Avenger 2.4L; match original amperage, pulley and VIN be…
- Mopar 4801323AD engine alternator, superseded by 4801323AK
Alternate lower-output build after the original unit or VIN confirms this configuration Fitment: Live OEM fitment lists 2007-2013 Avenger 2.4L; it is not the verified branch for 2014 and must not be interchanged with 4801477AA solely by …
- Gates complete serpentine-belt drive kit with K061015 belt, 39053 tensioner and idler pulleys
Conditional belt/tensioner/idler branch only when inspection finds cracking, contamination, weak tension, pulley roughness or misalignment during alternator service Fitment: Live listing explicitly covers 2008-2014 Dodge Avenger 2.4L; in…
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Sources for this issue (2)
The Dodge Challenger has a well-documented tendency to stall or shut off completely without warning while driving — a top-3 engine-category complaint at NHTSA and one of the most-reported electrical/engine problems at CarComplaints. There are two primary, separately documented root causes that present the same symptom. (1) ALTERNATOR FAILURE (3.6L Pentastar, and later 5.7L with electro-hydraulic power steering). Chrysler began investigating stalling complaints on 2011-2012 Dodge Chargers in August 2014 and found thermal fatigue of the silicon diodes inside the alternator. The large, intermittent current draw of the electro-hydraulic power-steering (EHPS) pump thermally stresses the diodes until the alternator fails suddenly. This became NHTSA recall 14V634 (Chrysler P60), covering ~434,000 2011-2014 Chrysler 300, Dodge Charger, Challenger, Durango, and 2012-2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee vehicles with the 3.6L engine and 160-amp alternator (remedy began Feb 27, 2015). It was later expanded under NHTSA recall 17V435 (remedy began Feb 12, 2018) to additional 2011-2014 cars with EHPS and 5.7L or 3.6L engines. NHTSA's stated consequence for both: "If the alternator fails, the vehicle may stall without warning, increasing the risk of a crash," with an additional risk of an underhood fire from a short circuit. (2) TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) / FUEL-PUMP-RELAY FAILURE (2008-2014, all engines). The TIPM is the car's central fuse/relay/electrical-distribution computer. When it (or its internal fuel-pump relay) degrades, owners report the engine stalling or shutting off mid-drive, intermittent no-starts, flickering lights, and multiple simultaneous warning lights (check engine, traction control/ESC, ABS). CarComplaints documents this on the 2009 Challenger ("engine shuts down while driving," 7 complaints, severity 8.6/10, ~$800 average repair, ~43,300 miles) and the 2013 Challenger ("bad TIPM," 12 complaints, severity 7.2/10, ~$940 average repair, ~43,050 miles). Because the engine quits unexpectedly, the driver loses power steering and (on automatics) power braking assist while the car is in motion — making this a genuine safety hazard, especially in intersections, on highway merges, and during turns. Multiple NHTSA complaints describe near-crashes and crashes from sudden loss of power.
Common Symptoms
- Engine suddenly shuts off / stalls while driving with no warning
- Stalling during turns, merging, or in intersections (loss of power steering and brake assist)
- Battery / charging-system warning light, then dimming or flickering headlights and dash lights (alternator)
- Multiple warning lights at once (check engine, traction control/ESC, ABS)
- Intermittent no-start or having to cycle the ignition several times to start
- Engine cranks but won't fire after a stall
- Random electrical glitches (lights flashing, wipers activating, alarm cycling) before the stall (TIPM)
- Hesitation or loss of acceleration before shutdown
How to Fix
First, check open recalls by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls or with a Dodge dealer — 2011-2014 3.6L cars (and EHPS 5.7L cars) are covered by alternator recalls 14V634 / 17V435, which replace the alternator FREE of charge. If your car qualifies, this is the cheapest and correct fix. For the alternator path off-recall: a charging-system test (battery, alternator output, voltage drop at the alternator plug/ground) confirms the failure. Watch for the battery/charge warning light, dimming lights, and a P0562 (system voltage low) DTC before a full stall. Replace the alternator (3.6L commonly uses a 160A or 220A unit) and inspect the wiring connector and ground for corrosion/damage, since a bad plug or ground can mimic a failed alternator. For the TIPM path: have the TIPM and its internal fuel-pump relay tested. A common, far cheaper interim fix for the fuel-pump-relay failure mode is an external fuel-pump relay bypass kit that takes the load off the failing internal relay (~$50-120 part). The full fix is replacing/rebuilding the TIPM — replacement modules run roughly $500-900 plus programming/labor, or a specialist rebuild is often more cost-effective. Inspect/clean grounds and check for water intrusion into the module. Confirm the diagnosis before throwing parts at it: scan for DTCs, monitor charging voltage with the engine running (should be ~14.1-14.4 V), and note whether the stall is preceded by electrical glitches (TIPM) or a charge/battery warning (alternator).
Sources for this issue (2)
A widely reported electrical complaint across nearly all Challenger model years is excessive parasitic battery drain that leaves the car dead overnight or after sitting a few days. A healthy modern vehicle should settle to roughly 25-50 mA of key-off draw once all modules go to sleep; owners reporting this problem measure anywhere from several hundred milliamps to over 2-4 amps, which is enough to flatten a battery in a day or two. There are several distinct, real-world root causes documented across owner forums (ChallengerTalk, ChallengerForumz, Hellcat.org), NHTSA/CarComplaints filings, and repair sites: 1) Power-window self-cycling — a faulty window switch or window module causes the driver- or passenger-side glass to drop and raise itself a fraction of an inch repeatedly with the key off, running the motor until the battery is dead. 2) TIPM failure — a known weak point on Chrysler/Dodge platforms and a common diagnosis on early (2008-2014) cars. 3) Infotainment / Uconnect radio (RER, 730N, and later Uconnect head units) not entering sleep mode — a hung or buggy radio keeps the accessory bus awake. 4) Stuck switches and accessories — faulty door-jamb/courtesy switches that keep a dome light on, a trunk/glovebox/vanity light staying on, door-lock actuator faults, or aftermarket add-ons (alarms, amps, dash cams) wired to a constant-hot circuit.
Common Symptoms
- Battery dead the next morning or after the car sits a few days
- Car needs a jump-start frequently despite a relatively new battery
- Power window drops and raises itself a fraction of an inch with the key off / ignition off
- Audible relay clicking or a motor/pump running after the car is shut off and locked
- Key-off parasitic draw measures well above the normal ~25-50 mA (often hundreds of mA to 2-4 A)
- New battery still goes dead and alternator tests fine
- Dome, trunk, or courtesy light staying on with doors closed
How to Fix
Confirm the charging system first: load-test the battery and verify alternator output with a multimeter, including an AC-ripple check to catch a failing diode (a new battery that keeps dying with a "good" charging test points to parasitic draw, not the battery). Then perform a key-off parasitic-draw test: let the car fully sleep (30-60 minutes, doors closed), put a meter in series with the negative battery cable, and confirm the draw. Anything sustained above ~50 mA is suspect; over ~250 mA will flatten the battery overnight. Isolate the offending circuit by pulling fuses/relays one at a time (both the under-hood and trunk-area fuse boxes) and watching for the draw to drop. Common findings and fixes: - Power-window self-cycling: replace the faulty window switch or window/door module and reset window auto-up programming; have the dealer check for any applicable recall/extended-warranty coverage. - Radio/Uconnect not sleeping: confirm by pulling the radio fuse; fix with a head-unit software re-flash/update or replace the head unit if it won't sleep. - TIPM keeping a circuit awake or a stuck relay: swap/replace the suspect relay or, if confirmed, the TIPM. - Stuck door/courtesy/trunk switch or stuck dome light: replace the faulty switch. - Aftermarket accessories: move any constant-draw add-ons to a switched/ignition circuit.
Call to confirm they can assess your vehicle and perform the stated work. Search results do not confirm qualification, eligibility or coverage.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
- Innova 3320 auto-ranging digital multimeter
Its DC10A input is unfused and the manual limits high-current readings; incorrect series connection can damage the meter or vehicle, so use the exact manual procedure and a current clamp/professional diagnosis when the draw may exceed th…
- NOCO GENIUS5 five-amp charger, maintainer and desulfator
Long-term-storage support after the battery and charging system are known good, or while an infrequently driven vehicle is stored Fitment: Universal 6V/12V lead-acid including AGM and lithium support; it does not locate or repair a paras…
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Sources for this issue (3)
P0562 code reference
General diagnostic-code context. The code alone does not confirm a cause for your vehicle; use the applicable issue card and its sources.
Frequently asked questions
What does P0562 mean on a Dodge?
P0562 stands for "System Voltage Low." P0562 means the engine computer detected that the vehicle's system (battery/charging) voltage is too low for normal operation. The computer constantly monitors charging-system voltage because nearly every sensor, injector, and module depends on a stable supply; sustained low voltage can cause erratic behavior and other false codes. This is most often a charging or battery problem — the alternator isn't keeping up, the battery is weak, or there's resistance in the cables/grounds. You may notice dim lights, slow cranking, or multiple unrelated warning lights. On Dodge it is documented across 5 models: Charger, Durango, Journey, Avenger, Challenger.
What are the most common causes of P0562?
The most common causes of P0562 are: Failing alternator or worn alternator brushes/regulator, Weak, old, or discharged battery, Corroded, loose, or damaged battery cables and terminals, Bad engine or chassis ground connections, Slipping, glazed, or broken serpentine/drive belt, High resistance in charging system wiring or fusible link, Faulty PCM voltage reference or charging-system control. The specific cause varies by vehicle.
How much does it cost to fix P0562 on a Dodge?
Published repair estimates on Dodge range from $10 to $2,400 depending on the model and root cause. If an issue mentions a recall or campaign, check your VIN with the manufacturer or NHTSA and confirm eligibility and coverage with a dealer.
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Content compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, and owner reports. May contain errors. Always verify with your vehicle's service manual.