Acura · Known Issues

1991 Acura Integra Problems: 9 Known Issues

1991 model year · NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports · Updated November 2026

According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 1991 Acura Integra has 9 documented known issues, with 1 rated critical. The most serious is Motorized passive shoulder belt sticks on track or fails to move ($0-$600 repair). Across all issues with published estimates, repair costs range from $25 to $4,000. DIY maintenance guides at au7o.io.

1991 · All trims · All engines

Choose the year and equipment for your written issues and visual request.

YearTrimEngine

No email neededHow interest is saved

Interest applies to the selected vehicle and configuration; it is not a reservation. Voting stores a first-party identifier for up to 180 days to prevent repeat votes. No account or email is needed. Clearing cookies or using another device may count separately. Privacy

Visual coming soon

Your interest helps us choose what to build next.

Visual Known Issues · Coming soon

$7.99/month plus taxes at launch on January 1, 2027 · No payment today

Preview the XT6 example

All 9 Known Issues

Filter:

When Issues Typically Appear

Outer CV joint boot tears leading to joint failure and clicking

80K-180K

PGM-FI main relay solder joint cracks cause hot-weather no-start

80K-200K

Rear wheel bearing hum from press-in hub assembly

100K-200K

Engine motor mounts crack and collapse — drivetrain vibration + clunk on shifts

100K-200K

Distributor internal shaft seal fails, oil leaks into cap and causes misfires + stalling

100K-200K

Ignitor / ignition control module inside the distributor fails — intermittent or no-start

100K-250K

063K125K188K250K mi

On the 1990-1993 Acura Integra, uS-market 1990-1993 Integras used a motorized passive shoulder belt that travels on a track from the A-pillar to the B-pillar. A common failure leaves the belt stuck in the down/forward position with the warning light on. Pulling it back by hand does not last, because it moves forward again the next time the door is opened and closed and does not return. Symptoms include intermittent retraction — sometimes 100%, sometimes 0%, sometimes stopping partway — accompanied by a constant error beep indicating a seatbelt malfunction. Failure modes include blown 30A passive-motor fuses, broken door-jamb switches, worn track gears, and seized motors.

Common Symptoms

Shoulder belt stuck in forward (door) position
Belt fails to return when door closes
Constant warning chime/beep
Seat belt warning light stays on
Motor audibly hums but belt doesn't move
Belt retracts only intermittently

How to Fix

The seat-belt fuses are under the hood on the passenger-side shock tower — the fuse-box cover labels them; pull and inspect the passive motor L and R fuses (30A each) first. To unstick the belt manually, locate the rod with a hex-head fitting on the motor, then use a screwdriver/Allen key to drive the seat-belt motor manually to the rear position before closing the door. American Honda has a policy of offering a lifetime warranty on the functional components of their seat belts — as long as the vehicle is an American-market car, has not been in a collision, and the belt assembly has not been modified, American Honda will fix it at its cost; if the dealer refuses, phone Acura Client Relations at (800) 382-2238. Note that Honda Canada does not honor this policy.

Owner tips & cautions

TipCall Acura Client Relations at (800) 382-2238 if a dealer refuses warranty repair — US-market belts have a lifetime functional warranty regardless of mileage or owner.
WarningDo NOT disable the passive belt and rely only on the lap belt — the lap-only belt was never intended as a standalone restraint and offers poor upper-body protection.

Typical repair cost:$0 - $600

Research This Issue

Google Reddit YouTube NHTSA

Community Reported

High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 25, 2026

On the 1990-1993 Acura Integra, the PGM-FI Main Relay is a critical electronic switch that sends power to the fuel pump and engine computer (ECU); when you turn the key it clicks on, allowing the pump to build pressure and the computer to manage the engine — without a working main relay the engine won't get fuel or the electronic commands it needs to run. The main relay is a known weak point on DA-chassis Integras — over many years the solder joints inside the relay crack from heat and vibration, and the problem is often worse on hot days or after the car has been running, as heat causes the cracked joints to expand and lose connection. Symptoms include crank-but-no-start after the car sits in the sun, intermittent stalling, and the fuel pump failing to prime audibly when the key is turned to ON.

Common Symptoms

Engine cranks but won't start when hot
No fuel pump prime sound at key-on
Intermittent stalling while driving
Restarts fine after cooling down
Check engine light may not flash codes if relay is dead

How to Fix

Replacing the main relay is one of the easiest repairs on the Integra; it is located under the driver's-side dash, to the left of the steering column — unbolt the mounting bracket (10mm), unplug the harness, and plug in the new relay. Use a quality replacement — the DA-chassis OEM part number is typically 39400-SH3-003 (also cross-referenced as 39400-SK7-003; verify with your VIN at an Acura dealer or parts store, as several supersessions exist). Reputable aftermarket cross-references include Standard Motor Products, Beck/Arnley, and Denso. Expect to pay $25-$80 for the part and avoid the cheapest generic relays — reliability matters. Resoldering the cracked joints on the existing relay's circuit board has been done successfully by many owners, but requires skill with a soldering iron and may not be permanent — a new aftermarket relay is the more reliable repair.

What you need to fix it

Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.

1990–1993 Acura Integra PGM-FI main relay
Repair part Exact 1990–1993 Integra application.
eBay
PGM-FI main relay 39400-SH3-003
Verified repair component. Approved replacement: PGM-FI main relay 39400-SH3-003.
Acurapartswarehouse

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.

Owner tips & cautions

TipCarry a spare main relay in the glove box — they're small and a roadside swap can save a tow.
TipDiagnose first: turn key to ON and listen for the 2-second fuel pump prime. No prime + no audible relay click = main relay.

Typical repair cost:$25 - $150

Research This Issue

Google Reddit YouTube NHTSA

Community Reported

High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Updated Nov 7, 2026

On the 1990-2001 Acura Integra, the ignition distributor on 1990-2001 Integras (and all Honda B-series engines of the era) sits at the rear of the head and is driven directly off the exhaust cam. Inside the distributor housing, an oil seal separates the cam-driven shaft from the cap/rotor/electrical assembly above it. When this seal hardens with age and heat cycling, engine oil under pressure leaks past the shaft, fills the cap area, and coats the rotor and contacts. Result: misfires, hard starts, hesitation, stalling at idle, and sometimes a check-engine light for misfire codes. The shaft seal CAN technically be replaced internally, but it is difficult and many shops will not attempt it — they replace the whole distributor instead because reused housings often re-leak quickly. Cleaning the cap helps for a few weeks and then symptoms return.

This issue also affects: Acura MDX, Acura RDX, Acura RSX

Common Symptoms

Oil pooling visibly inside the distributor cap when removed
Engine misfires intermittently, especially under load or after warm-up
Stalling at idle once the engine is hot
Hard start when warm (oil-fouled rotor won't conduct)
Check engine light (P0301-P0304 misfire codes on 1996+ OBD-II cars)
Briefly improves after distributor cleaning, returns within weeks

How to Fix

Replace the complete distributor. OEM Honda distributors are pricey ($350-500+) but reliable; aftermarket units from Cardone, A1 Cardone, or Spectra Premium are $80-150 and work fine for non-track use. While the distributor is out, also replace the cap, rotor, and ignition wires — they're cheap and replacing them at the same time saves a labor cycle. After install, time the engine to factory spec (16°±2° BTDC at idle with timing-adjust connector unplugged). Do NOT just clean the cap and call it done — the oil keeps coming and you'll be back in 6 weeks. If you're keeping the car long-term, the Honda OEM distributor outlasts aftermarket 2:1.

Owner tips & cautions

TipReplace the cap, rotor, and ignition wires at the same time as the distributor. They're cheap and you're already in there — saves a future labor cycle.
WarningDo NOT just clean the cap and call it fixed. The internal oil leak keeps coming. Cleaning buys you 4-6 weeks before symptoms return.

Typical repair cost:$80 - $600

Research This Issue

Google Reddit YouTube NHTSA

Manually Verified

High ConfidenceVerifiedUpdated Nov 7, 2026

On the 1990-1993 Acura Integra, the Integra's ignition system uses a discrete ignitor module (also called ignition control module, or ICM) mounted inside the distributor cap. The module triggers the coil and is a known failure point on 1990-1993 Integras — replacement units are stocked by most major parts retailers (Beck Arnley, Delphi, Standard Motor Products). Failure presents as a no-spark condition: engine cranks normally but will not start, or starts intermittently. Often happens after the engine reaches operating temperature, then the car will not restart until the module cools — though owners report the failure mode varies. Note that 1990-1993 Integras use the OBD-0 diagnostic system, which produces numeric flash codes (e.g. code 15 for ignition) rather than the OBD-II P-codes used from 1996+. The original Honda heat sink part #30121-PM5-A02 mentioned in some installation guides is now discontinued/out of production.

Common Symptoms

Engine cranks but won't start (no spark to coil)
Intermittent no-start, especially when hot
Sudden stall while driving with no warning
Check engine light with code 15 (ignition output signal) flashed on the ECU
Engine starts, runs briefly, then dies
Restart works after the car cools for 30-60 minutes

How to Fix

Test the ignitor before replacing — a multimeter check at the coil primary terminals while cranking will confirm whether the module is sending a pulse to the coil. If no pulse: replace. OEM Honda module $80-150, aftermarket (Beck Arnley, Delphi) $30-80. The module sits inside the distributor cap; replacement requires removing the cap and rotor, unscrewing 2 mounting screws, and transferring the heat sink if present (Civic/Integra units may require heat sink #30121-PM5-A02, now discontinued, for correct fitment). Inspect the inside of the distributor cap and rotor for moisture or corrosion while you're in there — a cracked cap allows water in and causes premature module failure on the replacement. Replace cap + rotor at the same time as a preventive measure.

What you need to fix it

Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.

AstroAI digital multimeter for voltage, current, resistance, continuity, and diode testing
Diagnostic tool explicitly required Universal electrical diagnostic tool; not vehicle-specific.
Amazon
Ignition Control Module / ICM, 30120-PM5-A01 / 30120-PR3-003 cross-reference
Confirm the original connector and part number.
eBay

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.

Owner tips & cautions

TipReplace the distributor cap and rotor at the same time. A cracked cap lets in moisture that fails the module again within months. Both parts are under $50 combined.
TipTest before replacing. Use a multimeter on the coil primary terminals while cranking — if the module is pulsing the coil, the no-start is somewhere else (often the main relay).

Typical repair cost:$30 - $200

Research This Issue

Google Reddit YouTube NHTSA

Manually Verified

High ConfidenceVerifiedUpdated Nov 7, 2026

On the 1990-1993 Acura Integra, the CV joints are lubricated with grease and sealed inside rubber boots that hold the grease in and keep dirt out; over time the boots crack or tear, grease escapes and dirt enters the joint causing it to break down, and the joint develops excessive play in its bearings, producing a repetitive clicking sound when accelerating through a curve. A clicking or popping noise when turning is the classic sign of a worn outer CV joint, most obvious during sharp low-speed turns like in a parking lot; vibrations while accelerating and dark heavy grease splattered on the inner edge of the tire are additional symptoms. The problem is common on the B18A1-powered DA chassis, where the outer boots crack with age and especially after donuts in reverse or hard cornering.

Common Symptoms

Clicking or popping when turning at low speed
Grease splattered on inner wheel and suspension
Clunk on acceleration or shifting into gear
Vibration at highway speed
Torn or cracked outer boot visible at full lock

How to Fix

If the boot has just torn and no dirt has gotten into the joint, regreasing and rebooting can work — a $10 boot kit vs. a $60 replacement axle is the tradeoff. Reman axles run around $50 each and boot kits about $25 — AutoZone and similar carry both for the 1992 Integra 1.8L DOHC. When rebooting, pack the outer CV joint boot with molybdenum disulfide grease, lube the spider and inside bore of rollers, ensure rollers are aligned with marks made at disassembly and install with the high side of rollers facing outward. Use new boot clamps (low-profile metal bands included in kit). Most owners simply swap the full reman half-shaft for under $100/side — quicker than rebooting. Always replace the axle nut and use a new transaxle retaining ring.

What you need to fix it

Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.

Front outer boot, 1990–2001 Integra
Verified repair component. Approved replacement: Front outer boot, 1990–2001 Integra.
Sixityauto
Complete front axle pair, 1990–1993 Integra
Verified repair component. Approved replacement: Complete front axle pair, 1990–1993 Integra.
Buyautoparts

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.

Owner tips & cautions

TipInspect both outer boots at every oil change — catching a tear early lets you reboot for $25 instead of replacing the axle.

Typical repair cost:$50 - $1,150

Research This Issue

Google Reddit YouTube NHTSA

Community Reported

High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 25, 2026

On the 1990-1993 Acura Integra, The wheel bearings on the 1990-1993 Acura Integra (DA chassis, second generation) are critical parts located inside the wheel hub assembly — for the DA-generation Integra these are press-in style bearings pressed into the steering knuckle in the front and the hub/spindle in the rear, and they support the full weight of the car while it's in motion. When a wheel bearing starts to go bad it usually gives warning signs; ignoring them can lead to serious problems including the wheel separating from the car, and the most common sign is a humming, rumbling, or grinding sound that gets louder with speed. The hum is often hard to localize from inside the cabin — passengers in the back may each think it's on their side — but it typically lessens when steering unloads the bad bearing (e.g., turning right shifts weight onto the left side and unloads the right side, so if noise decreases when turning right, the right bearing is likely the culprit).

Common Symptoms

Humming or rumbling noise that increases with speed
Noise changes pitch or volume when turning
Vibration through floor at highway speed
Slight wheel play when rocked on jack stands
Uneven inner tire wear

How to Fix

This is an advanced DIY job. Some owners replace the rear as a complete pre-pressed hub assembly (commonly $80-$120 from aftermarket suppliers), which avoids press work; others source just the bearing/race and press it into the spindle/knuckle using a hydraulic shop press (or have a machine shop do it). Front bearings on the DA always require pressing into the knuckle. Quality replacement brands include SKF, Timken, FAG, Koyo and NSK (the latter two are often OEM suppliers to Honda). Rear bearings are a bit more expensive but easier to access than the fronts. Budget $40-$120 per bearing/assembly plus press/labor; total shop cost typically $200-$450 per corner.

What you need to fix it

Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.

MOOG rear wheel bearing and hub assembly for 1990–1993 Acura Integra
Repair part Exact 1990–1993 Integra rear position.
eBay
DriveBolt NT513033 rear wheel hub assembly
Repair part 1990–1993 Acura Integra, rear.
Partsgeek

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.

Owner tips & cautions

TipDiagnose by steering side-to-side at highway speed: if the hum lessens when steering right, the bad bearing is on the left (unloaded) side, and vice versa.
TipFor the rear, you can often buy a complete pre-assembled hub/bearing unit for roughly $80-$120, which avoids needing access to a hydraulic press.

Typical repair cost:$80 - $500

Research This Issue

Google Reddit YouTube NHTSA

Community Reported

High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Updated Nov 7, 2026

On the 1990-2001 Acura Integra, all DA and DC Integras (and all Honda B-series transverse cars) use four engine mounts: front, rear, passenger-side (the 'side mount'), and driver-side (the transmission mount). The rear and front mounts use a fluid-filled rubber bushing that wears out — typically the rear mount goes first by 100,000 miles, the passenger-side side mount second. Failure signs: clunk when shifting in or out of gear (especially on automatics), vibration at idle that disappears when you press the brake or shift to neutral, and a 'wheel hop' feeling under hard acceleration. Skipping motor mount replacement on a manual Integra accelerates wear on the half-shafts, transmission shift forks, and the trans itself, because the engine is moving around in the bay.

Common Symptoms

Clunk or thud when shifting between Drive and Reverse (auto)
Clunk on engagement of 1st gear from stop (manual)
Vibration at idle that subsides when brake is pressed or trans is in Neutral
Wheel hop or chassis shudder under hard launches
Visible engine rock when revved in neutral
Visible cracks, separation, or fluid leakage on the mount itself

How to Fix

Replace mounts one at a time as they fail, not all four preemptively (the front and side mounts can last 200k+). Diagnose by having a helper rev the engine in neutral while you look — a healthy mount holds the engine still; a dead one lets the engine rock 1-2 inches. Common pattern: rear mount + passenger-side mount are the first two to need replacement, and both are visible from above without lifting. Aftermarket options range from cheap rubber ($30 each) to Energy Suspension polyurethane ($60-100, transmits more vibration but lasts forever) to Innovative Mounts billet ($100-200, used for tracked cars). For a daily-driver Integra, OEM Honda rubber or Cardone is the right balance. Total cost replacing rear + side: $80-300 in parts, 2-3 hours of labor.

2 part options are hidden until exact year, trim, and engine fitment can be confirmed.

Owner tips & cautions

TipDiagnose before buying parts. Have a helper rev in neutral while you watch from the side — a healthy mount holds the engine still, a dead one lets it rock 1-2 inches. Replace only the dead ones.
WarningEnergy Suspension polyurethane mounts ($60-100) last forever but transmit much more vibration into the cabin. Great for track cars, terrible for daily-drivers — your steering wheel and shifter will buzz at idle.

Typical repair cost:$80 - $500

Research This Issue

Google Reddit YouTube NHTSA

Manually Verified

High ConfidenceVerifiedUpdated Nov 7, 2026

NHTSA Recalls6 recalls

EXTERIOR LIGHTING

CERTAIN AAI MOTORSPORTS COMBINATION LAMPS SOLD AS REPLACEMENT LAMPS FOR USE ON THE ABOVE LIST PASSENGER VEHICLES. COMBINATION LAMPS NOT EQUIPPED WITH AMBER SIDE REFLECTORS FAIL TO CONFORM WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, "LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT."

Campaign #06E06000029/06/2006

EXTERIOR LIGHTING

CERTAIN CK MOTORSPORTS COMBINATION HEADLIGHTS, CLEAR CORNER, BUMPER, AND SIDE MARKER LIGHTS SOLD AS REPLACEMENT LAMPS FOR USE ON THE PASSENGER VEHICLES LISTED ABOVE. SOME COMBINATION LAMPS THAT ARE NOT EQUIPPED WITH AMBER SIDE REFLECTORS FAIL TO CONFORM TO FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT.

Campaign #06E04900024/05/2006

EXTERIOR LIGHTING

CERTAIN PRO-A MOTORS CORNER LAMPS, TURN SIGNALS, AND HEADLIGHTS SOLD AS REPLACEMENT LAMPS FOR USE ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES LISTED ABOVE. SOME COMBINATION LAMPS THAT ARE NOT EQUIPPED WITH AMBER SIDE REFLECTORS FAIL TO CONFORM TO FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT.

Campaign #06E02600023/03/2006

EXTERIOR LIGHTING

CERTAIN EAGLE EYES AND SONAR HEADLIGHTS AND CORNER LIGHTS SOLD AS AFTERMARKET FOR USE ON 1988-2005 HONDA CIVIC, 1990-2005 HONDA ACCORD, AND 1990-2001 ACURA INTEGRA PASSENGER VEHICLES LISTED ABOVE. HEADLIGHTS AND CORNER LIGHTS THAT ARE NOT EQUIPPED WITH AMBER SIDE REFLECTORS FAIL TO CONFORM TO FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT.

Campaign #06E03200018/04/2006

AIR BAGS:FRONTAL

ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, SOME OF THE PASSENGER AIR BAG MODULES WERE NOT PROPERLY WELDED AND MAY NOT DEPLOY IN A COLLISION.

Campaign #02V19600024/07/2002

+ 1 more recalls. Check all on NHTSA.gov

Enter your VIN at NHTSA.gov to check recalls specific to your vehicle.

🔧

A mechanic who knows YOUR exact car

Answers tuned to your year, make, model & trim — not generic advice. Save your garage so it always has the right context.

Get ahead of Acura Integra problems — free

Leave your email and we'll alert you the moment there's a new recall or known issue for your Acura Integra. Free, no account needed.

Join 700+ subscribers following Au7o for vehicle insights and updates.

Don't see your problem? Describe your symptoms to get a diagnosis, or get a full repair guide.

Other Acura Models

Acura RDX16 Acura TLX15 Acura RSX14 Acura TL14 Acura ILX12 Acura MDX11

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the most common Acura Integra problems?

According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 1991 Acura Integra has 9 documented issues. Documented issues include: Motorized passive shoulder belt sticks on track or fails to move, Outer CV joint boot tears leading to joint failure and clicking, Passenger-side cowl seal leak floods blower motor and floor pan. Of these, 1 is rated critical and should be addressed promptly.

Is the Acura Integra reliable?

The 1991 Acura Integra has 9 known issues compiled from NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports. 1 issue is rated critical: Motorized passive shoulder belt sticks on track or fails to move. Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.

How much does it cost to fix common Acura Integra problems?

Repair costs for known Acura Integra issues range from $0 to $4,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Motorized passive shoulder belt sticks on track or fails to move, typically costs $0-$600 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Motorized passive shoulder belt sticks on track or fails to move?

US-market 1990-1993 Integras used a motorized passive shoulder belt that travels on a track from the A-pillar to the B-pillar. A common failure leaves the belt stuck in the down/forward position with the warning light on. Pulling it back by hand does not last, because it moves fo… Repairs typically run $0-$600. Severity: high.

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Outer CV joint boot tears leading to joint failure and clicking?

The CV joints are lubricated with grease and sealed inside rubber boots that hold the grease in and keep dirt out; over time the boots crack or tear, grease escapes and dirt enters the joint causing it to break down, and the joint develops excessive play in its bearings, producin… Repairs typically run $50-$1,150. Severity: medium.

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Passenger-side cowl seal leak floods blower motor and floor pan?

This is a very common problem on 1990-1993 Integras: after many years, the foam seals beneath the windshield cowl no longer keep water out and it ends up on the passenger floor after passing through the blower motor and rusting it out. The drainage paths beneath the cowl are very… Repairs typically run $30-$350. Severity: medium.

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Rear quarter panel and rocker panel rust-through behind wheel arch protectors?

Any Integra that still has the rear wheel arch protectors is already starting to rust, even if not visible on the outside — pulling a protector typically reveals wet mud trapped against the inner arch lip with rust eating the metal underneath. This is one of the most common pr… Repairs typically run $200-$4,000. Severity: medium.

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra PGM-FI main relay solder joint cracks cause hot-weather no-start?

The PGM-FI Main Relay is a critical electronic switch that sends power to the fuel pump and engine computer (ECU); when you turn the key it clicks on, allowing the pump to build pressure and the computer to manage the engine — without a working main relay the engine won't get fue… Repairs typically run $25-$150. Severity: medium.

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Rear wheel bearing hum from press-in hub assembly?

The wheel bearings on the 1990-1993 Acura Integra (DA chassis, second generation) are critical parts located inside the wheel hub assembly — for the DA-generation Integra these are press-in style bearings pressed into the steering knuckle in the front and the hub/spindle in the… Repairs typically run $80-$500. Severity: medium.

What is the 1990-2001 Acura Integra Engine motor mounts crack and collapse — drivetrain vibration + clunk on shifts?

All DA and DC Integras (and all Honda B-series transverse cars) use four engine mounts: front, rear, passenger-side (the 'side mount'), and driver-side (the transmission mount). The rear and front mounts use a fluid-filled rubber bushing that wears out — typically the rear mount… Repairs typically run $80-$500. Severity: medium.

What is the 1990-2001 Acura Integra Distributor internal shaft seal fails, oil leaks into cap and causes misfires + stalling?

The ignition distributor on 1990-2001 Integras (and all Honda B-series engines of the era) sits at the rear of the head and is driven directly off the exhaust cam. Inside the distributor housing, an oil seal separates the cam-driven shaft from the cap/rotor/electrical assembly ab… Repairs typically run $80-$600. Severity: medium.

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Ignitor / ignition control module inside the distributor fails — intermittent or no-start?

The Integra's ignition system uses a discrete ignitor module (also called ignition control module, or ICM) mounted inside the distributor cap. The module triggers the coil and is a known failure point on 1990-1993 Integras — replacement units are stocked by most major parts retai… Repairs typically run $30-$200. Severity: medium.

Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.

All 9 Known Issues

When Issues Typically Appear

1990-1993 Acura Integra: Motorized passive shoulder belt sticks on track or fails to move#

1990-1993 Acura Integra: PGM-FI main relay solder joint cracks cause hot-weather no-start#

1990-2001 Acura Integra: Distributor internal shaft seal fails, oil leaks into cap and causes misfires + stalling#

1990-1993 Acura Integra: Ignitor / ignition control module inside the distributor fails — intermittent or no-start#

1990-1993 Acura Integra: Passenger-side cowl seal leak floods blower motor and floor pan#

1990-1993 Acura Integra: Rear quarter panel and rocker panel rust-through behind wheel arch protectors#

1990-1993 Acura Integra: Outer CV joint boot tears leading to joint failure and clicking#

1990-1993 Acura Integra: Rear wheel bearing hum from press-in hub assembly#

1990-2001 Acura Integra: Engine motor mounts crack and collapse — drivetrain vibration + clunk on shifts#

Other Acura Models

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the most common Acura Integra problems?

Is the Acura Integra reliable?

How much does it cost to fix common Acura Integra problems?

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Motorized passive shoulder belt sticks on track or fails to move?

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Outer CV joint boot tears leading to joint failure and clicking?

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Passenger-side cowl seal leak floods blower motor and floor pan?

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Rear quarter panel and rocker panel rust-through behind wheel arch protectors?

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra PGM-FI main relay solder joint cracks cause hot-weather no-start?

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Rear wheel bearing hum from press-in hub assembly?

What is the 1990-2001 Acura Integra Engine motor mounts crack and collapse — drivetrain vibration + clunk on shifts?

What is the 1990-2001 Acura Integra Distributor internal shaft seal fails, oil leaks into cap and causes misfires + stalling?

What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Ignitor / ignition control module inside the distributor fails — intermittent or no-start?