Au7o mascotAu7o
Known IssuesDiagnose my car
  1. Au7o
  2. /
  3. Known Issues
  4. /
  5. P0322
P0322CriticalIgnition

P0322: How to Diagnose & Fix — Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal

4 vehicles · 3 makes · $50-$500 repair

Share:@au7o.io

How to diagnose and fix P0322: most-reported vehicles

Ranked by owner reports. Each card gives the symptoms, how to confirm the cause, the fix, parts and sources for that vehicle.

Audi A4 · 2002–2008

Link to this issueError Codes:P0322

B6/B7 A4 owners who set P0322 almost always buy an engine speed sensor (G28) first, and a share of them are back on the forums a week later with the same code and the same no-start. The reason is that on this platform the failure is often the circuit rather than the pickup. The G28 lives at the bellhousing above the flywheel ring gear, and its lead runs up the back of the engine through a zone that sees exhaust heat, oil weepage and constant vibration from engine rock. Insulation hardens and chafes, a conductor breaks inside the loom, or the connector's female terminals spread and oxidise - and any of those gives the ECM the same result as a dead sensor: zero pulses, and P0322 stored as no signal. Ross-Tech's guidance for 16706/P0322 is explicitly to check the wiring to and from the sensor and the ECM before condemning the part, and at least one documented case traced the fault to a broken signal wire far from the sensor, up in the main loom near the ECU under the scuttle panel. Owners describe an engine that cranks at normal speed and never fires, sometimes preceded by weeks of hot-restart hesitation or a stall pulling into a parking space. Both the 1.8T and the 2.0T FSI are affected, and the code often shows up alongside P0321 (implausible/erratic signal) when the circuit is intermittently making contact rather than fully open - that pairing is a strong hint that the problem is a connection, not the sensor element. On the A4 there is also a purely mechanical version of the same complaint: a replacement sensor that is not pushed fully into its bore, or whose retaining bolt is left loose, sits at too large an air gap and reproduces the no-signal fault straight after the repair. What makes this pattern worth calling out separately is the money it wastes - the sensor is cheap, but diagnosis by parts substitution is not.

Common Symptoms

  • Cranks but will not start
  • Code returns after a new crankshaft position sensor is fitted
  • Stalling when hot
  • P0321 stored alongside P0322
  • Zero RPM on scan tool while cranking

How to Fix

Start at the connector, not the parts counter. Raise the car, find the G28 at the bellhousing and unplug it. Inspect the pigtail along its whole visible run for chafe, heat damage and oil soaking, and look at both halves of the connector for spread pins, corrosion or green film; a terminal that has lost tension can be re-tensioned or the connector body replaced with a repair pigtail. With the sensor unplugged, measure its resistance across the signal terminals - an open reading condemns it - and then check continuity and insulation on the harness side back to the ECM connector, plus the shield and grounds. Wiggle-testing the loom while watching engine speed on a scan tool during cranking will usually expose an intermittent break; note that on documented cases the break was not near the sensor at all but up in the main loom by the ECU, so do not stop at the engine bay. If the wiring is good and the sensor is open, fit a Bosch or genuine Audi replacement rather than a bargain unit; poor-quality sensors are a recurring theme in the threads on this code. Whichever part you fit, seat it all the way to its shoulder in the bore and tighten the retaining bolt properly - a common "new sensor didn't fix it" outcome is nothing more than a sensor that was not fully seated. If the harness is the culprit, repair it with soldered and heat-shrunk joints or a factory repair lead, and re-route the section away from the exhaust so the same chafe point does not come back. Clear the fault, then verify with the scan tool that engine speed reads correctly while cranking and that the code does not return after several heat cycles. Parts run roughly $40-$150 for the sensor and very little for a repair pigtail; a shop will typically bill an hour of diagnosis plus an hour of labour, putting the whole job in the $150-$400 range.

Typical repair cost:$100 - $400
Sources for this issue (4)
  • Error Codes P0321 and P0322 - AudiWorld A4 (B6) Platform Discussionforum
  • P0322 / Crankshaft Position Sensor??? - Audizineforum
  • Car won't start! P0322 (already replaced crankshaft position sensor) - Audizineforum
  • 16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) - Ross-Tech Wikiarticle

Research This Issue

GoogleRedditYouTubeNHTSA
Community Reported
Low ConfidenceVerifiedReviewed Sep 2026

Volkswagen Jetta · 1999–2009

Link to this issueError Codes:P0322

On the Mk4-generation Jetta the crankshaft position sensor is called the Engine Speed Sensor, or G28 in VW's component code. It is a magnetic pickup bolted into the bellhousing on the underside of the engine/transmission joint, where it reads the teeth of the flywheel/flexplate ring gear and hands the ECM the only true crankshaft speed and position reference the engine has. That location bakes it: the sensor sits inches from the exhaust and the transmission case, and after a decade of heat cycling the winding inside opens up or the potted body cracks. When the pickup goes fully open the ECM sees nothing on the circuit and stores P0322 (VCDS shows the same fault as 16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal). The classic complaint pattern is temperature-dependent and progresses in a recognisable way. The car starts fine cold and drives normally, then after twenty or thirty minutes at operating temperature it cuts out at a stoplight or on deceleration as if the key had been switched off. It cranks briskly afterwards but will not fire, and the tachometer needle stays flat on zero the whole time it is cranking - a flat tach while cranking is the single most diagnostic symptom, because the cluster gets its RPM from the same signal. Let it sit thirty to sixty minutes and it starts and drives again, which is why owners chase fuel pumps and ignition switches first. Eventually the sensor fails outright and the car never restarts. The same sensor and the same failure appear across the sibling Mk4 cars - Golf, New Beetle - and on both the 2.0L 8-valve (AEG/AVH/BEV/BBW) and the 1.8T, and again on the later 2.5L five-cylinder cars. The secondary cause worth ruling out before buying parts is the circuit rather than the sensor. The G28 pigtail runs along the bellhousing and can chafe on the subframe or be cooked by exhaust heat, and the connector picks up oil film and corrosion in that location; a broken wire or a spread terminal produces the identical no-signal fault, which is why forum threads are full of owners who fitted a new sensor and still had a no-start.

Common Symptoms

  • Engine cranks but will not start
  • Tachometer stays at zero while cranking
  • Stalls without warning once fully warmed up
  • Restarts only after cooling down 30-60 minutes
  • Check engine light on
  • Intermittent long crank before firing

How to Fix

Confirm the fault before spending money. With a scan tool connected, crank the engine and watch live engine speed: if RPM reads zero while the starter is turning, and the dash tachometer does not flick off its stop, the crank speed signal is genuinely absent rather than intermittent. Then get under the car and unplug the G28 - it is on the bellhousing, held by a small Allen-head bolt (5 mm on the 2.0), reached from below with a stubby ratchet. Inspect the pigtail for chafe and heat damage and the connector for oil contamination or corrosion on the pins, and measure the pickup's resistance across the two signal terminals; an open circuit or an out-of-range reading condemns the sensor. Back-probing the harness side for continuity to the ECM connector separates a bad sensor from a broken wire. If the sensor is bad, replace it with a Bosch or genuine VW unit - the commonly referenced Mk4 2.0 part number is 06A 906 433C. This is one of the parts where cheap aftermarket pickups have a poor reputation; forum threads regularly document a no-name replacement failing within months or being dead out of the box. Note the exact routing and the cable-length/part number for your engine code before ordering, because VW used several G28 variants with different lead lengths. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil, seat the sensor fully against its shoulder and torque the retaining bolt - a sensor that is not pushed all the way home sits at the wrong air gap and reproduces the fault. Clear the code and verify RPM appears during cranking. If a good new sensor does not restore the signal, repair the circuit rather than replacing more parts: check for an open between the sensor connector and the ECM, clean and tension the terminals, and verify the engine-to-chassis ground straps. The part itself is inexpensive, $30-$100 for a quality unit, and the job is a common DIY; at a shop expect roughly an hour of diagnosis plus half an hour to an hour of labour.

Typical repair cost:$60 - $350
Sources for this issue (6)
  • TECH: MK4 2.0 Crank Position Sensor P0322 - VWVortexforum
  • p0322 code, replaced crankshaft position sensor, still no start?!? - VWVortexforum
  • Crankshaft Position Sensor P0322? - NewBeetle.orgforum
  • 2006 Beetle 2.5L P0322 - Engine Speed Sensor (Crank Sensor) (G28): No Signal - NewBeetle.orgforum
  • 16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) - Ross-Tech Wikiarticle
  • Code P0322 Volkswagen - Ignition Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signalarticle

Research This Issue

GoogleRedditYouTubeNHTSA
Community Reported
High ConfidenceVerifiedReviewed Sep 2026

RAM 1500 · 1994–2001

Link to this issueError Codes:P0340P0320P0322

The 3.9/5.2/5.9 Magnum uses a camshaft position sensor inside the distributor plus a crankshaft position sensor on the bell housing. These sensors are heat-sensitive and fail intermittently — the engine stalls or dies when hot and refuses to restart until it cools, or cranks-but-won't-start with no other symptom. Corroded/loose sensor connectors cause the same behavior.

Common Symptoms

  • Stalls when hot, restarts after cooling
  • Cranks but won't start
  • Intermittent dying while driving
  • Rough idle before failure
  • Tach drops to zero at stall

How to Fix

Inspect the sensor connectors/wiring for corrosion or a pulled pin first. Replace the failing sensor with a Mopar unit (owners report frequent failures of cheap aftermarket sensors): camshaft (distributor pickup) sensor Mopar 56027868 and crankshaft position sensor 56027865 (verify by engine/year). On distributor-cam-sensor trucks a full distributor may be needed if the pickup is integral. Parts $30-$150; typical $50-$250.

What you need to fix it

Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.

  • Mopar 56027272 crankshaft position sensor

    1994-1996 Dodge Ram 1500 3.9L, 5.2L or 5.9L applications listed; confirm OE 56027272 and connector before purchase.

    Motor City Reman
  • Crankshaft position sensor replacing Mopar 56027870AB

    The live page explicitly lists 1998 3.9L and 1999-2003 5.9L Ram 1500 applications; other 1997-2003 automatic Magnum combinations must be confirmed by OE number/VIN rather than inferred.

    AmericanTrucks
  • Mopar 56027871AB manual-transmission crankshaft position sensor

    1997-2003 Dodge Ram Magnum applications using OE 56027871AB with manual transmission; confirm engine, transmission and connector.

    Motor City Reman
  • Mopar 56026746 distributor pickup / camshaft position sensor

    1994-1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Magnum applications cross-referenced to 56026746; confirm distributor and connector.

    JEGS
  • Genuine Mopar 56028143 distributor pickup / camshaft position sensor

    1998-2003 Dodge Ram 1500 applications shown by the catalog; confirm engine, distributor and VIN because the page also covers other Dodge/Jeep models.

    Mopar Parts Giant

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.

Typical repair cost:$50 - $250
Sources for this issue (2)
  • Cam Sensor Failure Causing No Start or Stalling: Dodge Ram 1500 - RepairPalarticle
  • I solved my camshaft sensor issue - RamForumZforum

Research This Issue

GoogleRedditYouTubeNHTSA
Community Reported
Medium ConfidenceVerifiedReviewed Jul 2026

Volkswagen Touareg · 2004–2010

Link to this issueError Codes:P0322

The first-generation Touareg logs P0322 when the G28 engine speed sensor stops feeding the engine control module. On the 3.2L VR6 and on the V6 TDI the sensor sits low on the engine at the block/bellhousing area, in one of the hottest and most oil-soaked parts of the bay, and it is notoriously awkward to reach - owners report having to put the steering on full lock and work up from underneath to get a hand on it. Heat and oil film degrade the pickup over time; when it opens up, the ECM loses its crank reference completely and both fuel injection and (on the petrol VR6) spark stop. The symptoms are unambiguous once you know what to look for. The truck cranks strongly - batteries and starter are fine - but never catches, and a scan tool shows engine speed pinned at zero during cranking. Before the outright failure most owners get a warning period: the fault is stored as intermittent (16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal - Intermittent), the vehicle occasionally stalls at idle or on the overrun, or it takes an unusually long crank to fire, particularly once hot. Because a Touareg no-start also looks like a fuel-pump, immobiliser or battery-drain problem - all of which the platform is prone to - the crank sensor is frequently the third or fourth thing tried, after a lot of money has already been spent. A second, cheaper cause is the sensor connector and pigtail. The connector sits where oil weeps from the sump and cam-cover seams collect, and a contaminated or partially unlatched connector produces exactly the same no-signal fault as a dead sensor. Ross-Tech's own guidance for this code is to check the wiring to and from the sensor and the engine control module for damage from engine oil or coolant before condemning parts.

Common Symptoms

  • Cranks but no start
  • No RPM shown on scan tool while cranking
  • Intermittent stalling at idle or on deceleration
  • Extended crank time when hot
  • Check engine light with stored no-signal fault

How to Fix

Diagnose before you dive in: hook up a scan tool, crank the engine and watch the engine speed PID. Zero RPM while cranking confirms the crank reference is gone rather than a fuel or immobiliser problem. Read the freeze-frame and note whether the fault is stored as static or intermittent - an intermittent no-signal fault, with the vehicle still running, is the early stage of the same failure and is worth fixing before it strands the truck. Access is the real work on this vehicle. Raise it, turn the steering to full lock to open up the wheel-arch route, and work up to the sensor from underneath. Unplug and inspect the connector and its pigtail first: clean oil film off the terminals, check for chafed insulation where the lead is routed, and make sure the connector latches fully. If the wiring is sound, replace the sensor with a genuine VW/Audi part - the reference number widely listed for the V6 (3.2/3.6) is 022957147A - and verify the number against your engine code, because the correct part is chosen by cable length as well as by engine. Forum consensus and the DIY write-ups are emphatic that cheap aftermarket sensors are a false economy here given how much work it is to reach the part twice. Fit a new O-ring, lubricate it with clean engine oil so it seats without tearing, push the sensor fully home against its face and torque the retaining bolt. Clear codes and confirm that engine speed now appears during cranking and that the engine starts normally hot and cold. Budget roughly $80-$120 for a genuine sensor ($40-$75 aftermarket) and, at a shop, one to two hours of labour including diagnosis - total in the region of $150 DIY to $450 done professionally.

Typical repair cost:$150 - $500
Sources for this issue (5)
  • DIY - Engine Speed Sensor G28 V6 TDI P0322 - Club Touaregforum
  • 3.2 V6 2004 crank no start. No RPM or crank speed? - Club Touaregforum
  • P0322 on V6 TDi, engine shutdown - Club Touaregforum
  • 16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) - Ross-Tech Wikiarticle
  • Volkswagen Touareg Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor 022957147A - parts.vw.commanufacturer

Research This Issue

GoogleRedditYouTubeNHTSA
Community Reported
Medium ConfidenceVerifiedReviewed Sep 2026

Find P0322 by make

Browse every documented model and issue for your make.

Audi · 1 issueRAM · 1 issueVolkswagen · 2 issues

P0322 code reference

General diagnostic-code context. The code alone does not confirm a cause for your vehicle; use the applicable issue card and its sources.

Frequently asked questions

What does P0322 mean?

P0322 stands for "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal." The ECM/PCM is receiving no signal at all from the ignition/distributor engine-speed input circuit. With no RPM reference, the controller cannot properly time spark and fuel, which typically causes a no-start or stall. Usually an open circuit or completely failed pickup.

What are the most common causes of P0322?

The most common causes of P0322 are: Failed crankshaft/distributor RPM pickup sensor, Open or broken wiring in the signal circuit, Disconnected or corroded connector, Failed ignition module, Severely damaged reluctor/trigger wheel. The specific cause varies by vehicle.

How much does it cost to fix P0322?

Repair costs for P0322 range from $50 to $500, depending on the vehicle and root cause.

Which vehicles are affected by P0322?

Au7o has documented P0322 across 4 vehicle models from 3 manufacturers: Audi, RAM, Volkswagen.

Related codes

  • P0320 · Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
  • P0324 · Knock Control System Error
  • P0325 · Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
  • P0326 · Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
  • P0339 · Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
  • P0346 · Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
  • P0349 · Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)
  • P0355 · Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
🔧
A mechanic who knows YOUR exact car
Answers tuned to your year, make, model & trim — not generic advice. Save your garage so it always has the right context.
Get notified about P0322 fixes
We add new causes, fixes and affected vehicles for P0322 regularly — drop your email and we'll keep you posted. You can also diagnose your own car free.

Content compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, and owner reports. May contain errors. Always verify with your vehicle's service manual.

Known IssuesMotorcycle IssuesDTC LookupDrivePricingAboutTermsPrivacyCookiesConsentData rightsCopyrightFeedback
Share:@au7o.io

Vehicle data and repair guidance on this site are compiled with AI assistance and may contain errors. Always verify with your service manual or a qualified mechanic.

Data protection representation

DataRep representative in the United KingdomDataRep representative in the European Union
Au7o · 2026
Built for DIY mechanics. Privacy-first.

© 2026 Au7o. All rights reserved.