2014 Subaru Outback Problems: 11 Known Issues

How to Fix

If you experience harsh/delayed engagement, flaring, jerking, or a transmission warning, scan for CVT codes and get it evaluated quickly. First verify the vehicle is within (or was serviced under) the 10-year/100,000-mile CVT Warranty Extension — if so the valve-body or CVT repair should be free; escalate to Subaru of America if a dealer initially denies coverage, since owners report success on valve-body claims. Keep CVT fluid at the correct level/spec and address any leaks promptly, as low pressure accelerates valve-body wear. Out of warranty, a rebuilt/updated valve body is far cheaper than a complete CVT unit — get a diagnosis of the specific failed component before authorizing a full replacement.

How to Fix

Have dealer update CVT software to latest version. CVT fluid change may help. In severe cases, valve body or CVT replacement may be needed. Subaru extended CVT warranty on some vehicles.

Owner tips & cautions

• TipGet a proper diagnosis before replacing parts - similar symptoms can have different causes
• TipSearch Subaru Outback forums and owner groups for real-world experiences and DIY guides
• TipGet multiple quotes from independent mechanics - dealer prices can be 2-3x higher for the same repair

How to Fix

This is a free safety recall — do not delay. Enter your VIN at the NHTSA recalls site or Subaru's recall lookup to confirm TKB-20 (or related Takata campaign) applicability and completion status, then schedule the dealer to replace the passenger-side inflator/module at no charge. If a prior 'interim/like-for-like' inflator was installed, verify it has since been replaced with the final part, as some early replacements were themselves recalled. Until repaired, be aware some manufacturers advised against carrying front-seat passengers on the most severe-risk vehicles; treat completion as urgent, especially in hot/humid regions.

How to Fix

1) Check the oil level correctly first. Park on level ground and wait at least 5 minutes after shutting the engine off. Use the correct oil grade; Subaru's bulletin lists 0W-20. Under the bulletin, a dipstick reading at or below the add mark 4,000 miles or more after the last oil change, or a low-oil light 5,000 miles or more after it, does not require an oil consumption test. 2) If the level drops sooner than that, ask a Subaru dealer to run a Vehicle Coverage Inquiry on your VIN for bulletin 02-157-14R. On the Outback, it applies to 2013-2014 manual-transmission cars and to 2013 CVT cars below VIN D*321435. 3) The dealer runs an oil consumption test. The car qualifies if it burns more than 1/3 quart (10.6 oz) in 1,200 miles. 4) The fix for a qualifying engine is a replacement short block, not a new set of rings. For the 2013-2014 Legacy/Outback the bulletin lists part 10103AC600, now superseded by 10103AC650. 5) Coverage: the extension pays for oil-consumption repairs for 8 years/100,000 miles from the original warranty start date. For 2013-2014 cars that period has now ended for nearly every vehicle, so a repair today will probably be paid out of pocket unless the dealer's coverage check shows otherwise. The settlement's cash-reimbursement claim deadline was October 1, 2016. 6) For Outbacks the bulletin does not cover, or that pass the test, look at the conditions the bulletin says raise normal oil use first: the wrong oil grade or viscosity, hard driving, heavy loads or towing, long idling, and extreme temperatures.

Owner tips & cautions

• TipGet a proper diagnosis before replacing parts - similar symptoms can have different causes
• TipSearch Subaru Outback forums and owner groups for real-world experiences and DIY guides
• TipGet multiple quotes from independent mechanics - dealer prices can be 2-3x higher for the same repair

How to Fix

Find the exact source of the leak before approving any repair. Subaru bulletin 02-192-24R (Engine Oil Leak Diagnostic Procedures, all FA and FB engines, revised April 2025) has the technician compare the VIN with a table of production fixes. Vehicles older than the listed VIN breaks get every area inspected. A white spray coating (Spotcheck SKD-S2) can help show where fresh oil is coming from. The areas to inspect are: - where the timing chain cover meets the cylinder head, block, cam carrier and cam caps - the cam cap and cam carrier seams at the rear of the heads - the joint between the oil pan and the upper oil pan - the joint between the upper oil pan and the block, near the transmission - the oil level switch area. If oil is found on the oil level sensor, the sensor must be replaced. A leaking joint is cleaned and resealed with new liquid gasket. Subaru says to use its special tools J-51972 and J53038 when removing and refitting the timing chain cover, so the cover is not damaged and seals properly. The bulletin also shows where liquid gasket goes at the ends of the head gasket. The related bulletin 02-131-12R says that if no oil droplets are found, the technician should clean the area and check again at the next service. Replace the head gaskets only once the leak is confirmed to come from the head-to-block seam itself. Ask the shop to show you where the leak is. Use proper Subaru coolant. This problem is less common than on the older EJ engines, but it still occurs. Coverage: neither bulletin is a recall or a warranty extension. Bulletin 02-192-24R sends warranty claims to Subaru's Labor Time Guide. Bulletin 02-131-12R covers 2012-2019 Forester and Impreza and 2015-2019 WRX. It allows the oil-seepage repair to be claimed only while the vehicle is within the Basic New Car Limited or Powertrain warranty period.

Owner tips & cautions

• TipGet a proper diagnosis before replacing parts - similar symptoms can have different causes
• TipSearch Subaru Outback forums and owner groups for real-world experiences and DIY guides
• TipGet multiple quotes from independent mechanics - dealer prices can be 2-3x higher for the same repair

How to Fix

Confirm the source with a clean-and-dye or by cleaning the area and re-inspecting after driving — the leak originates at the cam carrier-to-head mating surface and/or the half-moon/cam cap seals, not the block gasket. Repair requires removing the cam carrier cover, cleaning all old sealant, and re-sealing with the correct Subaru anaerobic/RTV sealant (Three Bond / Subaru genuine liquid gasket) to spec, plus new spark-plug tube seals and cam seals as needed. Some owners report partial goodwill reimbursement from Subaru of America, though others have been refused once the powertrain warranty expired. Budget shop labor accordingly; it is not a quick gasket swap.

How to Fix

Read the code and verify it is a true catalyst-efficiency fault (compare upstream A/F sensor vs downstream O2 sensor switching) and rule out a lazy rear O2 sensor or exhaust leak first. Before paying out of pocket, check eligibility for recall/campaign WUJ-95 (2015-2016 2.5L) and the federal 8/80 emissions warranty — many owners get a free converter/front-pipe. If out of coverage, replace with a CARB-compliant OEM or OE-grade converter and address any underlying oil consumption first, or the new cat will fail again. Do NOT clear the code and ignore it — a degrading cat can overheat.

How to Fix

Diagnose by road-testing for a speed-dependent hum that shifts with cornering load, and confirm with an IR temperature check across all four hubs or by listening with a chassis-ear/stethoscope. The correct repair is replacement of the complete hub bearing assembly (the bearing is pressed into the knuckle on many years; the pressed cartridge or full knuckle-mounted hub is replaced as a unit). Use OEM Subaru or a top-tier supplier (Koyo/NSK/NTN, which are the OE bearing makers, or Timken/SKF) rather than budget bearings, which frequently fail again quickly. Replace in axle pairs only if both are noisy. Have the tech torque the axle nut to spec and inspect the ABS tone ring/sensor while apart.

How to Fix

Diagnose by pouring a small amount of water into the sunroof channel corners and watching where it exits — it should drain out below each A-pillar/rocker, not into the cabin. Clear the four drain tubes with low-pressure compressed air or a soft trimmer line (never a stiff wire that can pop the hose off the fitting). On affected builds, remove assembly grease/debris plugging the drain holes. Dry out and treat any soaked carpet/insulation promptly to prevent mold and electrical corrosion, and check under-seat modules for water damage. For vehicles in the New Car warranty window, reference the applicable water-leak TSB for coverage. Periodic drain cleaning is good preventive maintenance.

How to Fix

Diagnose in order: check the blower fuse; test whether the fan runs on HIGH only (points to the resistor on manual systems, or the power transistor on auto-climate cars); listen for a whirring/grinding motor (dry bearings = replace the blower motor); and inspect the blower connector for heat/corrosion damage (a common failure that can also cause intermittent operation) and for rodent damage. Replace the specific failed part — resistor/power transistor, blower motor, or repair the connector/harness. Also replace a clogged cabin air filter, which restricts airflow and overworks the motor. Auto-climate cars with no fan and a dead A/C light may need control-head diagnosis.

How to Fix

Inspect rear pads more often than you would on a typical vehicle (every service after ~15k miles). When replacing, this is a routine pad-and-rotor job — use quality pads (Akebono ceramic is the OE-style choice on many Subarus) and properly bed them in. Ensure caliper slide pins are cleaned and greased and that the parking-brake/caliper isn't dragging, which accelerates wear. Owners who tow, drive hilly terrain, or use the car in stop-and-go traffic should expect rear service roughly twice as often as fronts. There is no recall — this is inherent to the brake-bias design, so budget for it rather than chasing a nonexistent defect.