2016 Tesla Model S Problems: 13 Known Issues

On the 2012-2021 Tesla Model S, the low-voltage 12V lead-acid battery on early-to-mid Model S fails prematurely due to a poor original vendor cell plus constant vampire-load strain from always-on electronics. Roughly a third of Tesla NHTSA low-voltage complaints trace here. A weak 12V triggers a cascade of seemingly unrelated warnings, screen glitches, lock/unlock weirdness and 'car won't wake up.' In a subset of cars the real culprit is a failing DC-DC converter that stops properly charging the 12V, which owners misdiagnose as just a dead battery. A dead 12V can leave the car completely immobilized/locked.

On the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S, the MCU1 (Tegra 3-based infotainment) used in 2012-2018 Model S and 2016-2018 Model X has a chronic eMMC flash memory wear-out issue — the 8GB eMMC accumulates write cycles from system logging until it fails, which can take the rearview camera display, defrost/defog controls and turn-signal lighting offline. NHTSA investigation led to recall 21V-035 (NHTSA Campaign 21V035000) covering 134,951 vehicles. Owner notification began March 30, 2021. Tesla's remedy is replacing the VCM daughterboard (8GB Hynix eMMC) with one carrying a 64GB Micron eMMC, free of charge.

On the 2012-2021 Tesla Model S, the charge port door fails to open on command, or the internal latch fails to lock/release the charge cable. The actuator motor stops engaging the latch mechanism, or the electrical command isn't fulfilled, so the door won't 'push-to-open,' won't close, or the connector locks/unlocks erratically. Cold weather makes the door stick or freeze shut. Because charging is the car's lifeblood, a failed charge-port latch can strand an owner unable to plug in or unable to remove a stuck cable.

On the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S, the 17-inch center touchscreen develops a yellow band around its border as the display's optical bonding adhesive yellows when heat, humidity and oxygen reach it over time - very common on 2012-2017 cars, especially in warm climates. A related and more serious defect is LCD bubbling/gel leaking from the bottom of the screen as the adhesive fails. Both are cosmetic-to-functional display degradation, not an MCU logic-board failure (distinct from the eMMC issue). Tesla acknowledged the yellowing and built a UV-light remediation tool.

On the 2013-2017 Tesla Model S, the front lower 'fore link' (forward lower control link) can fracture or separate, most often at low speed while turning into a driveway or parking lot. NHTSA's ODI investigation (PE20-020) covering 2015-2017 Model S and 2016-2017 Model X (74,918 vehicles) identified 426 fore-link failures; the agency closed the probe without a mandated recall but noted Tesla's 2017 service bulletin (limited to Jan-May 2016 builds) left ~75% of the failures uncovered and recommended Tesla widen coverage. A class action alleges a broader suspension defect. NHTSA found no loss of control in the 426 failures, including eight above 40 mph, but driving on a failed link damages other components.

On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S all, model S and X with air suspension develop leveling-pump and air-strut failures — typically presenting as a nose-droop overnight (car settles unevenly) or "Air Suspension Needs Service" warning. Leaking corner air struts and air lines are the most common cause, and the compressor often wears out compensating for those leaks. Common at 80,000-160,000 km.

On the 2012-2019 Tesla Model S, early Model S large drive units (LDU) have a known internal coolant leak where the rotor shaft seal fails and coolant migrates into the drive unit, and separately the battery/drive-unit cooling lines and fittings crack or seep with age. Leaks rarely show as a puddle; instead owners see intermittent low-coolant messages that clear overnight, cooling fans that keep running after charging, brief regen/power reductions on warm days, or the cabin heater blowing cold. Left unaddressed, coolant loss can overheat the drive unit or battery.

On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, early Model S (and X) drive units develop a "milling" noise — a metallic whine that gradually grows louder, ultimately requiring drive-unit replacement. Tesla has replaced many DUs under warranty (often multiple times per car). Owner and press reports tie the noise mainly to the differential bearings and their clearance, which Tesla sometimes corrected with a shim instead of a full replacement. Units built after 2014 are quieter, but the noise still occurs. On dual-motor cars, the front drive unit is typically the first to fail.

On the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S, model S cars fitted with the optional panoramic (opening) glass roof are prone to water leaking into the cabin during heavy rain. Root causes include an improperly seated rear rubber seal, the early 2014-design seal channel that has an opening at the rear (so when parked nose-down on a hill the drain channel fills and overflows back inside), and pano-roof spacers pushing out. Owners also report seals torn by the roof mechanism rubbing on open/close, which Tesla has repaired under warranty by replacing the seal or resealing the roof. Water intrusion can wet headliner, pillars and floor and, in worst cases, reach electronics. Tesla discontinued the panoramic option in 2018 in favor of the fixed glass roof.

On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, the front trunk ('frunk') fails to open on command because the electric hood latch actuator fails or the release cables corrode/seize or the latch goes misaligned. Owners hear the actuator working but the hood won't pop, or the dash reports 'front trunk / hood latch position unknown.' Conversely a frunk that doesn't latch fully is a safety concern - Tesla has run recalls inspecting the frunk secondary/hood latch on some cars. Loss of frunk access blocks the emergency 12V jump/manual-release points on some models.

On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, the Model S's flush, auto-presenting exterior door handles are the single most-complained-about item on the car (the #1 issue in Consumer Reports' survey of ~1,300 owners). The small plastic 'paddle gear' inside the handle that transfers the pull to the latch cracks under material fatigue, and internal micro-switch wires break, so the handle stops presenting or fails to retract. The heavily-used driver's door often fails first, sometimes as early as ~20,000 miles, with the other three doors failing later. Owners can get locked out or unable to enter. Tesla revised the mechanism through Gen 1 -> Gen 2.1 -> Gen 3, but the earlier design remains widespread on used cars.

On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, the window regulator on Model S doors fails because of a weak plastic ferrule in the regulator assembly that cracks, letting the glass come off its track or float free in the door. Owners report grinding/crunching or cracking noises raising and lowering the glass, glass that sticks out past the chrome trim (which also blocks the frameless-door auto-drop, risking a closed door catching the glass), or a window that drops into the door and won't come up. It affects front and rear doors across most model years.

On the 2013-2021 Tesla Model S, the rear integrated electronic parking brake (EPB) calipers seize or the caliper actuator motor fails, throwing 'EPB_w053 - Parking brake did not release' or 'EPB_w052 - Parking brake functions degraded.' The caliper shaft can seize (often from moisture/corrosion in cars driven little or in salt climates) or the small electric motor that drives the park-brake screw fails, leaving the brake stuck applied or unable to hold. Because the mechanism is integrated into the rear caliper, Tesla typically replaces the entire caliper - and frequently both rear sides - which drives significant cost.