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Tesla · Known Issues

2020 Tesla Model S Problems: 8 Known Issues

2020 model year · NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports · Updated September 2026

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Issue summary

According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 2020 Tesla Model S has 8 documented known issues, with 2 rated critical. The most serious are Model S / X Drive Unit "Milling" Noise / Failure ($0-$6,500 repair) and 12V Auxiliary Battery / DC-DC Converter Failure Cascade ($220-$1,800 repair). Across all issues with published estimates, repair costs range from $20 to $6,500. DIY maintenance guides at au7o.io.

In This Article

  • Model S Electrical2
  • Model S Drivetrain1
  • Model S Exterior2
  • Model S Suspension1
  • Model S Brakes1
  • Model S Body/Panels1
  • Recalls26
  • FAQ
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In This Article

  • Electrical2
  • Drivetrain1
  • Exterior2
  • Suspension1
  • Brakes1
  • Body/Panels1
  • Recalls26
  • FAQ

All 8 Known Issues

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ALL YEARS2024202320222021202020192018201720162015201420132012

On the 2012-2021 Tesla Model S, the low-voltage 12V lead-acid battery on early-to-mid Model S (concentrated in 2015-2018 build years) fails prematurely due to a poor original vendor cell plus constant vampire-load strain from always-on electronics. Roughly a third of Tesla NHTSA low-voltage complaints trace here. A weak 12V triggers a cascade of seemingly unrelated warnings, screen glitches, lock/unlock weirdness and 'car won't wake up.' In a subset of cars the real culprit is a failing DC-DC converter that stops properly charging the 12V, which owners misdiagnose as just a dead battery. A dead 12V can leave the car completely immobilized/locked.

Common Symptoms

  • Multiple unrelated alerts appear at once
  • 'Car needs service - power reduced' warning
  • 12V battery service message
  • Vehicle will not wake / no response to key
  • Screen and lock/unlock glitches

How to Fix

Replace the 12V battery (OEM lead-acid ~$220-380 installed); many owners upgrade to a lithium or AGM unit for 3-4x service life. If warnings persist or return quickly after a fresh battery, diagnose the DC-DC converter output (the PCS/charger assembly) rather than replacing the battery again. Tesla covers the 12V under the 4yr/50k basic warranty.

Typical repair cost:$220 - $1,800

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Community Reported
Medium ConfidenceVerifiedReviewed Jul 2026

On the 2012-2021 Tesla Model S, the charge port door fails to open on command, or the internal latch fails to lock/release the charge cable. The actuator motor stops engaging the latch mechanism, or the electrical command isn't fulfilled, so the door won't 'push-to-open,' won't close, or the connector locks/unlocks erratically. Cold weather makes the door stick or freeze shut. Because charging is the car's lifeblood, a failed charge-port latch can strand an owner unable to plug in or unable to remove a stuck cable.

Common Symptoms

  • Charge port door will not open
  • Door won't close / stays ajar
  • Charge cable locked in or won't latch
  • 'Charge port latch not engaged' message
  • Port sticks or freezes in cold weather

How to Fix

Short term, use the manual release lever behind the left rear trunk trim to open the door/release the cable, and warm a frozen port. For persistent failures the charge port actuator/latch or the whole charge port assembly is replaced - a ~30-minute mobile-service job. Keep firmware current, as some latch behaviors are software-mediated.

Typical repair cost:$150 - $700

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Community Reported
Medium ConfidenceVerifiedReviewed Jul 2026

On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, early Model S (and X) drive units develop a "milling" noise — a metallic whine that gradually grows louder, ultimately requiring drive-unit replacement. Tesla has replaced many DUs under warranty (often multiple times per car). Issue stems from gear-mesh quality and bearing tolerances; quieter post-2014 but still present. Front DU on dual-motor cars typically the first to fail.

This issue also affects: Lucid Air, Polestar Polestar 2, Tesla Cybertruck

Common Symptoms

  • whining noise
  • milling sound
  • humming
  • progressive louder over speed

How to Fix

Tesla warranty replacement is the standard fix when covered (8 yr / unlimited miles on drive unit historically). Out-of-warranty refurb DU from Tesla $2,500-$4,500; new $4,500-$6,500 incl. install. Have a Tesla service center document any whine while still under drivetrain warranty.

Typical repair cost:$0 - $6,500

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Manually Verified
High Confidence

On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, the Model S's flush, auto-presenting exterior door handles are the single most-complained-about item on the car (the #1 issue in Consumer Reports' survey of ~1,300 owners). The small plastic 'paddle gear' inside the handle that transfers the pull to the latch cracks under material fatigue, and internal micro-switch wires break, so the handle stops presenting or fails to retract. The heavily-used driver's door often fails first, sometimes as early as ~20,000 miles, with the other three doors failing later. Owners can get locked out or unable to enter. Tesla revised the mechanism through Gen 1 -> Gen 2.1 -> Gen 3, but the earlier design remains widespread on used cars.

Common Symptoms

  • Door handle does not present/extend when approached
  • Handle stays out and will not retract
  • Intermittent operation, worse in cold
  • Clicking or no response when pressing handle
  • Locked out of the vehicle

How to Fix

Replace the failed handle assembly with a later-generation unit, or install a paddle-gear/micro-switch rebuild kit (billet or upgraded plastic gear) which addresses the root-cause wear part at far lower cost than a full assembly. Retrofitting the Gen 3.0 handle per the Tesla service bulletin is the most durable fix. If only the microswitch/wire has broken the handle can often be repaired without a new assembly.

What you need to fix it

Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.

  • EVANNEX Tesla Model S Door Handle Repair Kit

    paddle-gear and microswitch-harness rebuild branch for a diagnosed early-generation handle Fitment/availability: early Model S Gen 1/2 presenting handle using OE-reference 1016009-00-E / 1042845-00-B components; verify installed handle g…

    EVANNEX

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.

Typical repair cost:$120 - $600

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Community Reported
Medium ConfidenceVerifiedReviewed Jul 2026

On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, the window regulator on Model S doors fails because of a weak plastic ferrule in the regulator assembly that cracks, letting the glass come off its track or float free in the door. Owners report grinding/crunching or cracking noises raising and lowering the glass, glass that sticks out past the chrome trim (which also blocks the frameless-door auto-drop, risking a closed door catching the glass), or a window that drops into the door and won't come up. It affects front and rear doors across most model years.

Common Symptoms

  • Grinding/cracking noise when moving the window
  • Glass off-track or sticking past the trim
  • Window falls into the door and won't raise
  • Window moves slowly or stops mid-travel
  • Auto-drop on frameless door not working

How to Fix

Replace the window regulator assembly (OEM), or install an upgraded billet-aluminum ferrule to cure the root-cause weak point at low cost. Check that the regulator/motor mounting bolts are torqued, since loose bolts accompany some failures. Re-calibrate the window after service.

What you need to fix it

Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.

  • Gruber Motors Billet Aluminum Window Regulator Ferrule

    root-cause ferrule-only repair branch Fitment/availability: Tesla Model S cable regulator whose plastic tensioner bushing is confirmed broken while cable, rail, pulleys and motor remain serviceable Fitment/availability: Add to cart live …

    Gruber Motors
  • Gruber Motors Tesla Model S Power Window Regulator Assembly

    complete regulator branch when damage extends beyond the ferrule Fitment/availability: selected Model S driver/passenger and front/rear door; buyer must choose the exact failed position and confirm assembly/service option Fitment/availab…

    Gruber Motors

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.

Typical repair cost:$20 - $450

Research This Issue

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Community Reported
Medium ConfidenceVerifiedReviewed Jul 2026

On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S all, model S and X with air suspension develop leveling-pump and air-strut failures — typically presenting as a nose-droop overnight (car settles unevenly) or "Air Suspension Needs Service" warning. Pump diaphragm wear is the most common single cause; corner air struts also leak. Common at 80,000-160,000 km.

This issue also affects: Buick Enclave, Lincoln Continental, Lincoln Navigator

Common Symptoms

  • nose droop
  • air suspension warning
  • uneven ride height
  • car settling overnight

How to Fix

Air pump replacement (refurbished) $300-$600 part + $200-$400 install. Single air strut $400-$800 part + install. Many owners switch to 3rd-party Arnott replacements. Severe cases need full system overhaul ($2,000-$4,000).

What you need to fix it

Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.

  • Arnott P-3283 Air Suspension Compressor

    early-system compressor branch only after leak correction and compressor failure confirmation Fitment/availability: 2012-2015 Model S and 2016 Model S built through March 2016; verify OE 600640300A, build date and system before purchase …

    PartsGeek
  • Arnott P-3509 Air Suspension Compressor

    later-system compressor branch only after leak correction and compressor failure confirmation Fitment/availability: 2016 Model S built from April 2016; Arnott also catalogs later 2016-2021 Model S and specified Model X applications, but …

    CarParts.com
  • Arnott AS-4328 Front Air Strut

    early-RWD front-strut branch only when that strut is proven to leak Fitment/availability: 2012-2016 RWD Model S front position, including listed Performance Plus OE families; does not cover AWD or post-2016 systems and exact OE/build mus…

    EVANNEX

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.

Typical repair cost:$500 - $4,000

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Manually Verified
High Confidence

On the 2013-2021 Tesla Model S, the rear integrated electronic parking brake (EPB) calipers seize or the caliper actuator motor fails, throwing 'EPB_w053 - Parking brake did not release' or 'EPB_w052 - Parking brake functions degraded.' The caliper shaft can seize (often from moisture/corrosion in cars driven little or in salt climates) or the small electric motor that drives the park-brake screw fails, leaving the brake stuck applied or unable to hold. Because the mechanism is integrated into the rear caliper, Tesla typically replaces the entire caliper - and frequently both rear sides - which drives significant cost.

Common Symptoms

  • 'Parking brake did not release' warning
  • 'Parking brake functions degraded' warning
  • Grinding or dragging from a rear wheel
  • Car will not move / rear wheel locked
  • Parking brake will not hold on an incline

How to Fix

Use the EPB release tool/connector to fully release a stuck caliper; if the shaft is seized or the motor is damaged, the park-brake caliper (or the caliper's park-brake motor) is replaced and the system re-calibrated. Clean-and-lubricate service can prevent recurrence. Independent shops sometimes replace just the actuator motor to avoid a full dual-caliper job.

Typical repair cost:$350 - $1,600

Research This Issue

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Community Reported
Medium ConfidenceVerifiedReviewed Jul 2026

On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, the front trunk ('frunk') fails to open on command because the electric hood latch actuator fails or the release cables corrode/seize or the latch goes misaligned. Owners hear the actuator working but the hood won't pop, or the dash reports 'front trunk / hood latch position unknown.' Conversely a frunk that doesn't latch fully is a safety concern - Tesla has run recalls inspecting the frunk secondary/hood latch on some cars. Loss of frunk access blocks the emergency 12V jump/manual-release points on some models.

Common Symptoms

  • Frunk won't open on command
  • 'Front trunk/hood latch position unknown' alert
  • Actuator noise but hood stays shut
  • Frunk won't stay latched / pops at speed
  • Grinding or no movement from the latch

How to Fix

Free seized cables by applying lithium grease to the actuator cable and cycling it by hand; realign or reposition the secondary latch per the service procedure. Replace a failed latch actuator if the mechanism no longer engages. For 'won't latch' cases confirm whether the VIN falls under a frunk/secondary-latch recall for a free inspection and re-alignment.

Typical repair cost:$0 - $400

Research This Issue

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Community Reported
Medium ConfidenceVerifiedReviewed Jul 2026
NHTSA Recalls26 recalls

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:ADAS:AUTONOMOUS/SELF DRIVING:SOFTWARE

Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling certain 2016-2022 Model S and Model X, 2017-2022 Model 3, and 2020-2022 Model Y vehicles. The "rolling stop" functionality available as part of the Full Self-Driving (Beta) software may allow the vehicle to travel through an all-way stop intersection without first coming to a stop.

Campaign #22V03700027/01/2022

LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES:HOOD:LATCH

Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling certain 2014-2021 Model S vehicles. The front trunk latch assembly may be misaligned, preventing the secondary hood latch from engaging. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 113, "Hood Latch System."

Campaign #21V00B00021/12/2021

FORWARD COLLISION AVOIDANCE: SENSING SYSTEM: CAMERA

Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling certain 2017-2021 Model S, Model 3, Model X, and 2020-2021 Model Y vehicles operating software version 2021.36.5.2. A communication error may cause false forward-collision warning (FCW) or unexpected activation of the automatic emergency brake (AEB) system.

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Other Tesla Models

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Frequently Asked Questions

What are the most common Tesla Model S problems?

According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 2020 Tesla Model S has 8 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Model S / X Drive Unit "Milling" Noise / Failure, 12V Auxiliary Battery / DC-DC Converter Failure Cascade, Charge Port Door / Latch Actuator Failure. Of these, 2 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.

Is the Tesla Model S reliable?

The 2020 Tesla Model S has 8 known issues compiled from NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports. 2 issues are rated critical: Model S / X Drive Unit "Milling" Noise / Failure and 12V Auxiliary Battery / DC-DC Converter Failure Cascade. Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.

How much does it cost to fix common Tesla Model S problems?

Repair costs for known Tesla Model S issues range from $0 to $6,500, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Model S / X Drive Unit "Milling" Noise / Failure, typically costs $0-$6,500 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.

What is the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S Model S / X Drive Unit "Milling" Noise / Failure?

Early Model S (and X) drive units develop a "milling" noise — a metallic whine that gradually grows louder, ultimately requiring drive-unit replacement. Tesla has replaced many DUs under warranty (often multiple times per car). Issue stems from gear-mesh quality and bearing toler… Repairs typically run $0-$6,500. Severity: high.

What is the 2012-2021 Tesla Model S 12V Auxiliary Battery / DC-DC Converter Failure Cascade?

The low-voltage 12V lead-acid battery on early-to-mid Model S (concentrated in 2015-2018 build years) fails prematurely due to a poor original vendor cell plus constant vampire-load strain from always-on electronics. Roughly a third of Tesla NHTSA low-voltage complaints trace her… Repairs typically run $220-$1,800. Severity: high.

Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.

Data compiled from NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, automotive forums, and AI-assisted research. No aggregated owner-report counts available for this vehicle yet.

Campaign #21V84600029/10/2021

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:ADAS:AUTONOMOUS/SELF DRIVING:SOFTWARE

Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling 2012-2023 Model S, 2016-2023 Model X, 2017-2023 Model 3, and 2020-2023 Model Y vehicles equipped with all versions of Autosteer leading up to the version(s) that contains the recall remedy. In certain circumstances when Autosteer is engaged, the prominence and scope of the feature's controls may not be sufficient to prevent driver misuse of the SAE Level 2 advanced driver-assistance feature.

Campaign #23V83800012/12/2023

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:SOFTWARE

Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling certain 2020-2022 Model Y, Model X, Model S, and 2017-2022 Model 3 vehicles. The Boombox function allows sounds to be played through an external speaker while the vehicle is in motion, which may obscure the Pedestrian Warning System (PWS) sounds. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 141, "Minimum Sound Requirements for Hybrid and Electric Vehicles."

Campaign #22V23500012/04/2022

+ 21 more recalls. Check all on NHTSA.gov

Enter your VIN at NHTSA.gov to check recalls specific to your vehicle.

What is the 2012-2021 Tesla Model S Charge Port Door / Latch Actuator Failure?

The charge port door fails to open on command, or the internal latch fails to lock/release the charge cable. The actuator motor stops engaging the latch mechanism, or the electrical command isn't fulfilled, so the door won't 'push-to-open,' won't close, or the connector locks/unl… Repairs typically run $150-$700. Severity: medium.

What is the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S Retractable Door Handle Failure (Paddle Gear / Actuator Wear)?

The Model S's flush, auto-presenting exterior door handles are the single most-complained-about item on the car (the #1 issue in Consumer Reports' survey of ~1,300 owners). The small plastic 'paddle gear' inside the handle that transfers the pull to the latch cracks under materia… Repairs typically run $120-$600. Severity: medium.

What is the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S Model S / X Air Suspension Leveling / Nose-Droop?

Model S and X with air suspension develop leveling-pump and air-strut failures — typically presenting as a nose-droop overnight (car settles unevenly) or "Air Suspension Needs Service" warning. Pump diaphragm wear is the most common single cause; corner air struts also leak. Comm… Repairs typically run $500-$4,000. Severity: medium.

What is the 2013-2021 Tesla Model S Electronic Parking Brake Caliper Seizure (EPB Motor Failure)?

The rear integrated electronic parking brake (EPB) calipers seize or the caliper actuator motor fails, throwing 'EPB_w053 - Parking brake did not release' or 'EPB_w052 - Parking brake functions degraded.' The caliper shaft can seize (often from moisture/corrosion in cars driven l… Repairs typically run $350-$1,600. Severity: medium.

What is the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S Frunk (Front Trunk) Hood Latch Actuator / Cable Failure?

The front trunk ('frunk') fails to open on command because the electric hood latch actuator fails or the release cables corrode/seize or the latch goes misaligned. Owners hear the actuator working but the hood won't pop, or the dash reports 'front trunk / hood latch position unkn… Repairs typically run $0-$400. Severity: low.

What is the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S Power Window Regulator Failure (Plastic Ferrule Design Flaw)?

The window regulator on Model S doors fails because of a weak plastic ferrule in the regulator assembly that cracks, letting the glass come off its track or float free in the door. Owners report grinding/crunching or cracking noises raising and lowering the glass, glass that stic… Repairs typically run $20-$450. Severity: low.